Biased view about…

Kenzo.

Kenzo is my number 1, all time, all world favourite brand. Everything that is Kenzo – romantic, edgy, artistic, feminine, smart, soft, everything at the same time – that’s what I love.

That said, Fall-Winter 2011/2012 is no different in my book. Coordinates like dark colours, out-of-this world fabrics and edgy, scary-ish florals are what make this brand what it is, and what give it its loyal fans, myself included right there, in the front row (I wish physically too).

Just like Karl Lagerfeld is unlikely to ever receive a negative review in the remainder of his reign, I’m sure to never be able to say a bad thing about Antonio Marras’s work for Kenzo. There is just something about the way he uses color, cut, print and fabric (silk especially) that seems unfallible. It is, to put it simply, beautiful.

Fall-Winter collections are by habit a pill harder to swallow, because there are feelings that need conveying: darkness, cold, fog, fun stuff like that. It is remarkable, in Marras’s case, how he manages that, and makes it interesting as well.

For instance, the collection is infused with paisley, a print traditionally associated with summer and normally found elsewhere, not on dresses and skirts to be paired with fur, during winter.

Loose pants, floor-sweeping chiffon dresses, pure romanticism like in the above look reflected in heavy knit cardigans and sheer silk. It’s all heart-shudderingly sweet and dark at the same time (and thank god for the darkness, because it might have got too much).

Clearly, there’s a gothic air about the entire collection, reflected in colours and cut. There was also print mixing, such as the above paisley+plaid mix, which is fairly successful.

Lace, business suits, fur, leather, parkas, cardigans, coats – they’re all there. Just better, and different.

I suppose, in the end, it could be said that Antonio Marras has found the answer to the question of what boho looks like during the winter, hasn’t he?

Of course, we’re talking about real life boho for women with jobs and exciting lives that can afford to dress however they want.

 

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